Nomadic Spirit is a weekly newsletter for travelers who care as much about the why as the where.
In this issue
This week’s Dispatch makes the case for wasting a day. A canceled tour in Vienna left an afternoon unaccounted for, and it turned out to be the part of the trip we remember best. In A Chosen Place, we go to Asturias, on Spain’s Atlantic coast, where the cider is poured from overhead into a glass held at the waist, and a region of a million people holds fourteen Michelin stars. In The Journey, reader Kelly Kilboy walks the Highline Trail at Glacier past epic views in every direction and comes home thinking about three small things she almost missed. And Further Afield has scientific permission to leave Tuesday afternoon blank, the women who have kept Asturian cooking alive for generations, and why Americans are taking fewer trips this year and spending more on them.

The Dispatch
Where Travel and Life Intersect
The Case For Wasting A Day
We finally have more time to travel. We're still acting like we're running out of it.

I've always been a planner when it comes to travel. But I was never particularly good at vacation.
On a seven-day trip, my brain started plotting reentry on day five (okay, day four). Every moment was planned, and a free window felt like a wasted opportunity.
I've been wondering whether some of us are still traveling with habits we developed when vacation time was scarce. So I went looking to see whether anyone had studied what happens when we overplan our time away.
They have. In 2024, researchers at Breda University of Applied Sciences and James Madison University published a study in the Journal of Hospitality & Tourism Research titled “The Best Experiences Cannot Be Planned.” They surveyed 376 working Germans and interviewed twelve at length. People inclined to maximize their vacations could end up less satisfied with them. The searching and comparing created doubt and raised expectations, both of which worked against satisfaction afterward.
It's possible to try too hard to have a good time.
A week in Italy
For most of our working lives, maximizing a vacation made perfect sense.
Vacation days came in tightly rationed blocks. If you had a week in Italy and didn't know when you'd be back, you wanted to make it count. Rome, Florence, and maybe Venice. Book the restaurants and get the museum tickets.
Many of us are entering a different stage of our traveling lives. We have more control over our calendars now, and we can stay another night or come back. I'm not sure we've changed the way we travel. We've gained time and filled it with more things.
The two-hour window
Gabriela Tonietto and Selin Malkoc, marketing professors who study how people spend their time, published thirteen studies in the Journal of Marketing Research on what happens when we schedule leisure. In one, they gave students cramming for finals a ticket for free coffee and a cookie. Half the students picked a time. The other half got a two-hour window. The students with a window enjoyed the break more. The students with a set time were nearly twice as likely to show up. Everything they tested was short, a movie or a coffee break, and they are careful to say the effect may not hold for a whole trip.
That's not an argument against planning. Some things must be booked, and I'm still going to make the dinner reservation and buy the museum ticket. It's an argument for leaving some unplanned time.
The armrests at Café Sperl
On our last day in Vienna this summer, we had tickets to tour the Austrian Parliament. There was a special session, and public tours were canceled. We got as far as the entrance, were asked to leave, and started walking back toward the hotel to decide how to fill an afternoon we had not planned for.
On the way, we passed Café Sperl. A friend had recommended it weeks earlier, and we had skipped it because the reviews were mixed. We went in this time.
Café Sperl opened in 1880 on Gumpendorfer Straße, and the room has changed very little since. Parquet floors, marble tables, milk glass lamps, red damask banquettes gone soft in the seats. I sat in a chair whose Thonet bentwood arms had been worn through the varnish to bare wood.
We stayed two hours, reading about noted painters and artists who started frequenting the spot in 1895, some of whom went on to form the Secession. The owner gave them a marble tabletop to draw on. The drawings were wiped away each night when the tables were cleaned.
We hadn't planned a minute of it. It's the afternoon I remember best.
We flew home the next morning.
Now I'm reminded to keep at least an afternoon empty and not reserve every meal. If we're somewhere we don't want to leave, we won't head out just because the itinerary says it's time.
For much of our lives, the scarce resource in travel was time. Now I'm beginning to think the scarce resource may be empty time.
by Paul M. Rand, Founder and Editor of Nomadic Spirit

A Chosen Place
Destinations worth traveling to and understanding once you arrive

Asturias, Spain
A part of Spain you probably haven't thought about, but should
Over a two-week period in late 2024, Asturias collected two recognitions that most European regions wait a very long time for. Casa Marcial, in the countryside outside Arriondas, became the first restaurant in Asturian history to hold three Michelin stars. Days later, UNESCO added Asturian cider culture to its list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Many American travelers know Spain well. Most would still struggle to say where Asturias is.
Americans go to Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, Granada, and the Mediterranean coast. Northern Spain has become better known through Bilbao and San Sebastián. Asturias sits farther west along the Atlantic coast and has been a Spanish holiday destination for generations. The region’s airport handles about two million passengers a year, almost all of them arriving from elsewhere in Spain.
Spaniards call this area Green Spain. The Cantabrian Mountains run almost to the Atlantic, and the Picos de Europa are their highest peaks. The valleys below are apple country, and the coast is cliffs and fishing harbors.
Oviedo, the regional capital, has a compact old town and a group of ninth-century pre-Romanesque churches, several of which are UNESCO sites. Gijón, half an hour north, sits directly on the Bay of Biscay. Villaviciosa anchors cider country. Cudillero is a fishing village stacked up the walls of its harbor.
The cider
Asturians drink cider daily. It is dry, cloudy, low in alcohol, and made from native apples. The region produces about 80 percent of all the cider in Spain.
Serving it is a learned skill. The pourer holds the bottle overhead and the glass near the waist, sending a thin stream through the air to break against the glass. Only a couple of inches go in at a time, a measure called a culín, and it is meant to be drunk immediately, before the next pour. The practice is called escanciar. Traditionally, everyone at the table drank from the same glass.
Liliana Ausín, an Asturian guide, told Travel + Leisure she learned it as a small girl by practicing in the bathtub with a bottle of water.
UNESCO recognized everything around the drink, the orchards, the native apple varieties, the cider houses, and the pouring itself, because Asturians were already doing all of it.
The food
Asturias is known for fabada, a heavy stew of white beans, pork, and sausage, and for Cabrales, a blue cheese aged in mountain caves in the east of the region. Gamonéu, made from a blend of cow, sheep, and goat milk, is one of several dozen cheeses produced here.
Casa Marcial is not alone; a region of about a million people holds fourteen Michelin stars. Nacho Manzano cooks his own region at Casa Marcial, in the converted farmhouse where his parents once fed neighbors.
Why it stayed quiet
Asturias has its own explanation for why it stayed off the American itinerary.
Esther Manzano, Nacho’s sister and part of the family that runs Casa Marcial, told National Geographic that the weather was unreliable, flights were scarce, and getting there was difficult. Asturians reached the obvious conclusion themselves.
“We just assumed nobody would want to come.”
Trains from Madrid had to climb the Pajares Pass, a slow, twisting route over the Cantabrians. Spain spent twenty years digging a tunnel underneath it. Since it opened in 2023, the crossing has taken about fifteen minutes.
There are still no nonstop flights from the United States, and connections run through Madrid or another European hub.
Asturias is not undiscovered. What has changed is that getting there is no longer the obstacle it was.

We want to hear from you
Two ways to be in Nomadic Spirit
Kelly’s piece this week (below) is a reader submission. The Journey is open to readers who want to write about a trip that mattered. Personal, specific, in your own voice. Length is flexible. We edit lightly and leave your voice intact.
Fork First: One dish, one place, one reason to go. 200 to 300 words. The test: would you go back for this dish? Would you tell everyone heading to that city to find it? If yes, write it up.
If you are interested in sharing your story with our 21,000+ readers, please write us at [email protected], and we’ll send along submission guidelines.
We read everything that comes in.

The Journey — Voices of the Nomadic Spirit
Stories from travelers who have been changed by where they went.

Western Meadow-Rue on the Highline Trail, Glacier National Park, Montana. Photograph by Kelly Kilboy.
The White Rock Held
by Kelly Kilboy
When I was a kid, I roamed the woods exploring everything I could: nature, water, bugs and other critters, sticks, trees, mud, rocks. I didn’t realize how much I missed nature until I visited Glacier National Park for the first time. Visiting Glacier helped heal me deeply in many ways and helped me find some much-needed clarity about the direction of my life. There are big things in life, but sometimes clarity and joy come from the small things that make life whole and meaningful.
While taking in so much grand beauty all around Glacier National Park, hiking and BIG, epic, awesome views everywhere, there were a handful of small things that have stuck with me. To start with, there was a yellow Columbine flower that stopped me in my tracks while hiking the Highline Trail. I’d never seen it in yellow! It was just growing solo in the rocks, and that amazed me even further. I’ve since learned it is native to the Rocky Mountains. Here was a delicate, beautiful flower just holding its own out on this rocky trail.
I also discovered a new flower for me, Western Meadow-Rue. This small, intricate flower completely intrigued me with its tiny and delicate ‘chandelier’ blooms, yet here it was, out here growing in the rocks along with the yellow Columbine! It is completely exposed to this very harsh environment, yet it holds its own. Kind of like me (and I’m sure many of us) being exposed and battered every day over all the injustices, wars, corruption, and chaos of the times we are living through. It reminds me of our human resiliency to endure, despite it all. It is rather remarkable, and these flowers brought me clarity around my own resiliency in their mere beauty and existence in the rocks, no less.
Lastly, along the Highline Trail hike, I noticed a white rock jutting out like a shelf in a sea of gray shale, as though someone might have intentionally put it there. I grabbed it to make sure my eyes weren’t deceiving me or that someone placed it there, but it was clearly natural. The contrast made me stop as if maybe someone set it up to put something on, or maybe just to see the contrasting colors of the white versus dark. Here is this white rock, along with the delicate Columbine and Meadow-Rue, all existing along an extremely steep area that endures excessive weather annually. The rock is further exposed to seasonal water runoff and eroded away over time, except for the white rock. It has held tough despite the harsh environs.
Nature continues to amaze me, and to remind me how delicate and fragile life can be. Such a great reminder for all of us to stop and to really notice the small things throughout life. I’ve noticed small things in and around life, but this trip really reminded me that I should do this more intentionally every day no matter where I am.
Kelly Kilboy is a Nomadic Spirit reader who found great peace at Glacier and lives in the western suburbs of Chicago.

Further Afield
Reading worth your time.
Maybe leave a little room
Journal of Hospitality and Tourism Management
There may be benefits to not planning every hour of a trip. Researchers studying unplanned travel found that travelers described psychological, cognitive, and physical benefits from leaving some decisions until after they arrived. A useful companion to this week’s Dispatch, and perhaps a little scientific permission to leave Tuesday afternoon blank.
Meet the stew queens of Asturias
National Geographic
For generations, Asturian women, known as guisanderas, have been the keepers of the region’s traditional cooking, preparing stews and other dishes served at family gatherings and celebrations. Today, about 40 women belong to the Club de Guisanderas, working to preserve recipes and techniques passed down through generations.
Why he keeps going back to Asturias
Travel + Leisure
Writer Nigel Hack has been traveling through Spain for more than 30 years, but Asturias is the region he keeps returning to. He makes a compelling case for its protected landscapes, fishing villages, cider houses, and locally owned businesses, and for a part of Spain that still reminds him of the country he first encountered decades ago.
Fewer travelers. Bigger travel budgets.
Deloitte
Deloitte’s latest summer travel survey found that only 45% of Americans planned a trip involving paid lodging this summer, the lowest level in six years. Those still going are not pulling back. The average number of summer trips holds at 3.1; more travelers are taking longer trips, and budgets for the longest trip are up 17% to $4,069.
The museum you didn’t know was there
AFAR
Some of the country’s best art collections sit on college campuses, in buildings by Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid and I.M. Pei. This roundup covers ten, from the Weisman at Minnesota to the Anderson Collection at Stanford, and eight of them are free. Almost none require building a trip around them.

We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.
John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley: In Search of America (1962)
